MADE IN SCARBOROUGH – CRABS & LOBSTERS

By Yolanda Carslaw

August is high season for Scarborough’s thriving lobster industry. It’s well known that Yorkshire’s European blue lobsters are eaten far and wide, but how does the industry operate and where can you eat one in Scarborough? Spy caught up with fishermen, distributors and Scarborough chefs to build a picture of the shellfish trade on our doorstep.

The farthest shed on West Pier is the shoreside base of shellfish merchant Edwin Jenkinson, a second- and third-generation family business that distributes Scarborough lobsters worldwide. Louise Kelly, a director, says: “We export 300 tons a year; they end up in restaurants in cities like Tokyo, Shanghai, B arcelona and Venice, and in holiday spots like Croatia or the Greek islands. Our brochure is available in Japanese and Chinese for those growing markets, but France is still the biggest buyer – they love lobster.
“Most lobsters sold in French restaurants come from the Yorkshire Coast. For closer parts of Europe, they go by road via the tunnel, and from there via Boulogne-sur-Mer, a big seafood hub.”

Summer is the busiest time for landing, and Jenkinson buys from vessels that land in Whitby, Filey and Staithes as well as from Scarborough boats (which include Pathfinder 2, Our Sharon, Elvira, Stumbling Inn, Investor and Capernaum).
Only 5pc of Jenkinsons’ shellfish stays in the UK, but they supply crabs to three Scarborough seafood kiosks and run their own in Filey, as well as selling to markets such as Billingsgate.

In a former baiting shed next-door, Chris Townsend and his father – also Chris – started East Coast Shellfish in 2022 after years working in the trade in Bridlington. They buy and sell lobsters and crabs landed by locals boats, including Scarborough vessels such as Boy Alan, Unexpected and Cornucopia.
“We got on well with a lot of fishermen and they were urging us to do it,” says Chris. “All our shellfish stays in the UK but only a small proportion stays in Scarborough which is crazy because it’s a fantastic product. But the numbers are going in the right direction.”

Chris and his father sell to local restaurants such as Clark’s, Dante’s, The Plough and Lookout on the Pier. “We supply the lobsters live: the chefs like to see them and can assure the quality. Occasionally we get fresh fish in too. It’s a pleasure to deal with local chefs here.”

They also sell to markets such as Billingsgate and Borough Market and to restaurants in Harrogate, Beverley, York and Liverpool. Chris adds: “It’s challenging but rewarding, and more than a job. It’s a thrill to come down on a morning and see the boats coming in.”

Among the fishermen selling to Edwin Jenkinson is Will Jenkinson, who has a green-hulled potting catamaran called Our Sharon.  Growing up in the Bottom End, Will started going to sea aged seven or eight with his dad, granddad and uncle, who were trawling. He’s completely at home at sea and loves his job, but says it is tough, physically and mentally.

“You need to be disciplined and able to get up in the morning. In summer we are out by 2.30am. In winter the lobsters hibernate, so that’s when we do repairs and make new pots.”

Will’s crewman is Tim Webster, who got into potting through his brother. “I love everything about it, including the hard bits,” he says. Will and Tim say they will be in the industry for life, but Will worries about the future because of growing regulations and the fact a lot of fishermen are coming up to retirement age.

Also selling to Edwin Jenkinson is Jeremy Smith of Pathfinder 2, who has been on the water for 30 years, 18 with crewman Pete Jackson. He says the industry has a decent future despite ongoing increases in regulation.
“I’ve seen it all before over the years,” he says. “The regulations impact you but if you can ride it, it works out. Anybody coming in fresh, or if you’re crew wanting to buy your own boat, it’s harder than it was, partly because making pots has become more costly. The way to get into it is to see who needs crew, and people still do that.”

Another lifelong Scarborough fisherman is Rich Ford, who first went to sea aged 16 and was sick for a fortnight – but it didn’t deter him. Recently his son Jamie has joined him on his potting boat, CJ Lewis. “It’s a dangerous job with tides and weather, but when it’s good, it’s good money,” says Rich. “Potting should have a fantastic future here as long as young people come into it.” Jamie, 21, adds: “It’s very hard work but it pays well. Salt water gets into your blood and you start to love it. I want to do it all my life.”

At this time of year they set off at 1 or 2am to empty and re-bait several hundred of Richard’s 1600 pots. “Our farthest are 14 miles from the castle,” says Rich. “We can collect £1400-worth of lobsters in a good morning. We leave about 800 in over winter, although up to 1 May this year we only went out 15 times due to poor weather.”

Rich says quotas were part of the decline in trawling but adds that the rise in seal numbers had a major impact. “In the late 90s, we switched to potting – it’s good lobster ground and one consequence of trawling’s decline was that it gave us more ground to go at for pots.”

As well as in Cafe Fish, Clark’s and Lookout on the Pier, you can enjoy lobster at Lanterna and Dante’s, or if you want fast food for the beach, grab a whole dressed fresh Scarborough lobster from Mick Grimes seafood stall by the pier for £20.

 

Original article from Scarborough Spy. ‘Scarborough Spy is an A5 print magazine published eight times a year. It celebrates all the great things going on in the town, little and large, musical and creative, active and sociable. Spy is for readers who live in Scarborough, have moved here, are visiting or are on holiday, it contains at least 15 pages of what’s on listings plus interviews, profiles, reviews and more. It is distributed in cafes, libraries and venues all over town and available on subscription at £2 per issue.’ 

Copyright Yolanda Carslaw